Ten Questions with Bill Nancarrow
We would like to introduce you to our executive winemaker for Napa Valley, Bill Nancarrow. In his expanded role at Duckhorn Wine Company, he is now responsible for overseeing production of the Duckhorn Vineyards and Paraduxx wine portfolios.
Why a career in winemaking?
Part of my training in restaurant management was wine appreciation courses. The more classes I attended, the more I fell in love with wine. And not just what was in the bottle. The technical aspects of grape growing and winemaking intrigued me, so much so that I decided to change my career.
Where did you get your winemaking experience?
My first winemaking experience was in England in 1994. The next year, I returned home to New Zealand and dedicated myself to my winemaking career. I was fortunate enough to have two great opportunities working for wineries in Hawkes Bay. First, I was part of the winemaking team at Huthlee Vineyards where I was eventually promoted to winemaker. Then in 1998, I was offered the position of assistant winemaker at C.J. Pask Winery, one of my country's most acclaimed Bordeaux varietal pioneers. There, I refined my skills working side by side with Kate Radburnd, one of New Zealand's most respected winemakers. It was a wonderful opportunity to work with a range of varietals, including the winery's renowned Merlot. Eventually, I was named winemaker for C.J. Pask when Kate was promoted to managing director.
What brought you to Duckhorn Wine Company?
In 2001, I had the opportunity to work a harvest in the Northern Hemisphere. At the time, I was really focusing on tasting and learning more about Napa Valley wines. At C.J. Pask in New Zealand we had a great reputation for Merlot, so I wanted to spend a harvest working with the best Merlot producer in Napa. That brought me to Duckhorn Vineyards. I had a wonderful time working here in 2001. My winemaking passion is red wine, and the fruit that we work with in Napa Valley is fantastic, some of the best in the world. On top of that, Napa is a great place to live.
What do you find different about making wine in California vs. New Zealand?
The language barrier - ha ha! I find that the real differences are not in the winemaking. The differences are in the growing conditions, and the different characteristics that result in the fruit, from flavor profile to tannin structure. In New Zealand we were all about exposing the fruit to more sunlight, but here we are very sensitive to overexposure. Winemaking in New Zealand has more of a hands-on approach compared to more use of technology here in California. My ideal is to find just the right balance between the two.
How do you think the style of the Duckhorn Vineyards wines will evolve in the future?
This is a winery with history and tradition. As an ongoing part of that winemaking tradition, I am cognizant of the skill and experience that Tom Rinaldi and Mark Beringer brought to the wines during their tenures as Duckhorn Vineyards winemaker. This created the Duckhorn style and quality expectation that our consumers have come to love and expect. We may experiment with some different techniques in winemaking and look to source fruit from parts of the valley where we have not done so previously, but in the end we are always aware of what Duckhorn stands for. We already have an incredibly high quality expectation within the winery. That will never change.
What is the best wine you ever had?
Everyone always talks about the wine they tasted that changed their lives, but for me I was already working as a winemaker before I had that type of experience. It actually wasn't until two years ago that I tasted a wine that completely blew me away, the 1969 Vega Sicilia Unico. The wine had a wonderful purity of fruit and freshness for its age; it tasted like it was five years old. It was stunning, with layers of complexity and balance.
What is your favorite food and wine pairing?
It depends on the situation. In winter I love hearty slow-cooked stew dishes (like Osso Bucco) with a four- or five-year-old Syrah- or Cabernet-dominant wine. My staple pairing would be hard cheeses with medium-bodied reds, Rhône blends or Meritage-style wines.
What do you like to do when you are not making wine?
Drink it. Watch international rugby matches at unusual times of the day (2 a.m.). Spend time with my family. Play golf. Explore the San Francisco Bay Area. Read history books.
Is your son Fergus going to be a second-generation winemaker?
He is only seven years old, but current indications are that he will be. He has a small vineyard at home with 20 vines planted to Zinfandel, Cabernet, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Grenache, and Viognier. We farm it per his instructions, but as of yet he has not made any wine. And he loves to come into the winery to "smell the tanks" as he calls it. This last harvest he helped on the sorting table a few times, which kept us entertained!
What would you do if you won the lottery?
That's a loaded question, but I would like to be able to take a couple years off to travel the world visiting all the great wine regions and some historical sites. Or maybe I'd just retire, play golf, and drink lots of wonderful wines.
